Where to Stay in Tower Hamlets

London
» Tower Hamlets

Zoë is a magazine editor, children’s book author and a writer for national newspapers. She also writes reviews, rants and insider guides on the best things to do, eat and see in London for her blog, The Z Factor, and tweets at @zedhedge.

https://the-zfactor.co.uk/

"Tower Hamlets, or east London the locals call it, has long been a melting pot of cultures due to it being a favoured area for immigrants throughout history to make their home."

Tower Hamlets, or east London the locals call it, has long been a melting pot of cultures due to it being a favoured area for immigrants throughout history to make their home. I always think the thing that makes London so wonderful is all the different people, from all walks of life, living (mostly) harmoniously and creating a community together – and nowhere is this more prevalent than in Tower Hamlets.

While it’s perhaps thought of as an area of deprivation by those who have never stepped inside the borough, this bleak version of Tower Hamlets is by no means the whole picture. Rather embarrassingly, I think my image of the East End was formed from years of watching the British soap EastEnders. After visiting friends who lived there I have realised there’s much more to it than launderettes and greasy cafes. There are beautiful parks, amazing markets and incredible restaurants to be found here and it would be a travesty to not to visit this area when exploring London.

I absolutely love Brick Lane and nearby Spitalfields market. Brick Lane is famed for its plethora of curry restaurants, although those in the know actually go for the amazing salt beef beigels at Brick Lane Beigel Bake. A traditional no-frills Jewish bakery, they serve up huge hunks of salt beef smothered in nose-tingling mustard surrounded by chewy bagel - a real London institution. Also on Brick Lane is the less-long standing, but by no means less-popular, food stall The Rib Man. Mark, the owner, is a real East End geezer and is passionate about ribs and hot sauce. He’s so popular that he’s actually started bottling his sauce to sell and I’m constantly planning my next trip to get my gob around these meltingly good sandwiches.

Spitalfields, on the other hand, is surrounded by chain restaurants, but it’s the market that’s the real draw here. The stalls sell vintage clothes and homewares and I love losing an hour or two weaving in and out of the stalls, examining all the costume jewellery and amazing trinkets.

Columbia Road is another great market, but it’s only open on Sundays. Primarily a flower market, I love getting swept down the street, which is always heaving both with people and flowers. Every sense comes alive at Columbia Road: listening to the stall-owners shout for your attention, the heady smell of flowers, the people watching and, of course, there are also some cute little cafes. I love Lily Vanilli for cupcakes and The Fox Knocker for something a bit stronger as they serve delicious wines along with vintage homeware - a winning combination. Both stores are independent and owned by people passionate about not both their produce and the area.

Just south of Brick Lane is another London food institution: Tayyabs. This cavernous restaurant is regularly voted London’s best curry eatery and every time I’ve been there they have always delivered on that promise. It’s a bring-your-own-booze affair and the restaurant is often filled with large parties having a jovial time. Tayyabs is wonderfully buzzy and I’ve had some of my best meals in London there.

Part of the north of Tower Hamlets is bordered by Regent’s Canal and just back from the canal on Coate Street is The Seabright Arms. This large pub is full of character and serves some incredible fast food thanks to the burger experts in residency - Lucky Chip. Often voted the best burger in London, the Lucky Chip burgers plus friends and a few beers makes for one of my favourite nights out in London: fun and laid-back. There’s also a live music venue in the basement, with big names playing there regularly.

Nearby Bethnal Green is home to the V&A’s Museum of Childhood. An off-shoot of the prestigious Victoria & Albert museum in Kensington, The Museum of Childhood is less packed with tourists than its counterpart and often has nostalgic exhibitions on. From an exhibit featuring items confiscated by teachers in London schools to one about Jacqueline Wilson, this museum keeps both adults and children happy.

A few miles south, near Wapping and Shadwell is Wilton’s Music Hall, the world’s oldest surviving music hall from the 16^th century. Wilton’s offers tours and often puts on shows, but equally it’s an interesting building to admire for aesthetics’ sake as it has been sensitively restored and evokes the feeling of a time gone by.

My perfect morning in Tower Hamlets

I would walk down Brick Lane, stopping in the various boutiques that line it. I love Tatty Devine for its amazing and fun jewellery and Oh Baby is great for picking up unique presents for friends’ kids, like funky clothes and interesting books.

I would keep walking up to Columbia Road and nose in those shops too – Beyond Fabrics is always a fun place to explore. I’d round off the morning with brunch at Dishoom – their bacon naans are some of the best in London.

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