Where to stay guides

Wandsworth

Where to stay in

Wandsworth

While her friends were all getting proper jobs, Emma was travelling the world and writing about her three true loves: travel, culture and food. After trying west, north and east London she finally settled in Clapham and started blogging for The Edible Woman. Her work has been featured on Stylist.co.uk and AOL and MSN Travel.

"It squeezes some of London’s most laid-back delights into its borders, from Putney’s river-front bars to Battersea’s vast park."

Sandwiched between illustrious Richmond and desirable Hammersmith, Wandsworth sometimes gets overlooked. Ask most people what it’s known for and they’ll probably say cheap council tax and Wandsworth Prison. Aside from these somewhat questionable qualities, it squeezes some of London’s most laid-back delights into its borders, from Putney’s riverfront bars to Battersea’s vast park, all overlooked by that iconic power station.

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Wandsworth has always been a short walk for me as it starts on my doorstep at Clapham Common. I always end up along the colourful houses of Northcote Road when my mum visits me, where I’ll ply her with salted caramel slices from Recipease. Ordinarily I wouldn’t recommend a chain, but their coffee is good and the cookery courses (especially the pasta master class) are inspired. I can never walk past without popping in for some pastel-swirled meringues.


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For something more substantial than cake, the Antica Bologna is run by (gasp) real Italians and serves authentic food. I once ran in here during a downpour and ended up eating meltingly delicious pork belly with charred apples and buttery spinach and one of the best tiramisus I’ve ever had.

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There’s a daily market spilling across Northcote selling everything from fresh fish and flowers to scarves, but no trip here is complete without visiting two of my favourite spots: Hamish Johnston’s cheese shop and Northcote Antiques Market. The former stocks excellent stilton and goats cheese as well as pickles and charcuterie, while the latter is an Aladdin’s cave of vintage treasures with everything a Cath Kidston-loving heart could desire, from chandeliers to cookware and jewellery.

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Walking the length of Northcote will take you to Wandsworth Common – prime dog walking and children exhausting territory with playgrounds and tennis courts – before leading into Wandsworth town. The brown-brick houses, pubs and factory chimneys look fairly ordinary, but on closer inspection you’ll notice the faded signs on the walls of what were once breweries. Wandsworth has a rich brewing history and a new generation of brewers is creeping back to the area. You can tour around Sambrook’s Brewery or, if like me, you prefer something stronger, visit The London Distillery Company. You can design bespoke booze here too, although be warned, these high-proof spirits are not for the faint-hearted…or weak-livered.

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Post-shopping, I love escaping to Battersea Park. Aside from the boating lakes and Children’s Zoo, there’s local art at The Pump House Gallery. I usually head towards the stone seats carved into the wall facing Chelsea Embankment. In front of the Peace Pagoda is the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by - and I should know, I once lost four hours of my life queuing here to look inside Battersea Power Station. Well, if there’s one thing British people do well it’s queuing.

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The prettiest entrance is through Albert Gate, by the white spires of Albert Bridge. Down from here along Parkgate Road is one of Wandsworth’s coolest bars. Combining drinking with drawing, The Doodle Bar serves cocktails with jars of chalk and the freedom to release your inner naughty child by scrawling on the walls. Follow the road as it turns into Westbridge and you’ll find Battersea Square. Only locals really know about the quality cafes and restaurants here and if I’m there around lunch I’ll pick up artichokes soaked in olive oil and some prosciutto from the little Melanzana trattoria.


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I always make the short stagger from here to one of my favourite bars: Le Quecumbar. Flanked by high-rise flats on a residential street, you can’t miss its Django Reinhardt sign that promises hot gypsy swing in downtown Wandsworth. The bar looks fairly innocuous from the outside but inside it’s very Parisian boudoir with cheetah statues and fairy lights. There’s nightly jazz, swing and blues as well as a beautiful beer garden and regular food pop ups. The last time I visited it was a French menu served by the guys at Gastronhome.

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Not quite so hidden, but equally worth a visit is Battersea Arts Centre on Lavender Hill. This theatre venue is housed in a Grade II former town hall, so has endless nooks and crannies to explore post and pre-performance.

Clapham Junction station has overground and national rail services all over London and beyond, but with everything from beer and boating to parks and theatre here, why would you bother leaving?

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My perfect morning in Wandsworth

After some chorizo hash browns from the ever-rammed Breakfast Club (get here early, the queue of hung over hipsters starts forming around 9am) I’d jump on the 37 bus and wander from Putney Bridge along the riverbank, admiring the early morning rowers that set off from the clubs facing the Thames – just for their rowing skills, obviously, nothing to do with the lycra or their biceps.

Then it would be live music at The Half Moon. Set just back from river, this charming pub has a curio-stuffed interior, a stone pizza oven and performances ranging from jazz gigs to BBC DJ sessions.